Fairhope, Alabama (Wiese Acres photo) |
Even very large containers have more limited soil volume than garden beds, so proper watering and fertilizing are critical to maintaining a successful planting throughout the season.
The frequency and amount of water containers require depends on many factors, including the temperature, wind, type of container, type and number of plants. The length of time the plant has been growing also effects the amount of water necessary to maintain a healthy plant. As the root ball enlarges, the soil becomes "crowded" and the water holding mass is decreased. The more mature your container garden, the more likely it is to need watering more frequently to maintain the same moisture levels.
There is no set rule about when to water containers, other than to water what is necessary to satisfy the needs of the plants It is important to watch closely and water whenever they feel dry according to the dictates of your plants. If you have plants that prefer to be on the dry side, you'll probably want to allow the top inch or so of soil to dry out before watering again. If you have plants that like consistent moisture, it's best to water them as soon as the surface of the potting soil looks and feels dry.
Plants should not be allowed to show signs of wilt before watering. Wilting is a sign of stress and the health and vitality of the plant can be affected if wilting becomes severe. When the root mass has become dry enough to cause wilting of the plant, it is also likely that the potting mix has pulled away from the sides of the pot. When that happens, it is very difficult to re-moisten the potting soil. Water tends to run right through the dried out soil mass and run out the bottom without being absorbed by the soil or the roots, or if the water can't escape through the drainage holes quickly enough, the entire root mass tries to float away. Repeated, frequent, generous watering or placing the container in a larger bucket of water and allowing the soil mix to draw water in through the drainage holes until it is finished absorbing is the best way to "re-constitute" your soil. When you see moisture on the surface of the planting mix, you'll know that it is sufficiently re-hydrated.
Each watering should be deep, adding water until it begins to run out the drainage holes at the bottom of the container. This assures that you have moistened the whole soil mass. It also allows for leaching of some of the fertilizer salts out of the soil. Leaching is the process of washing away any soluble salts from the water and fertilizer so that they don't build up to the point where they cause damage to the plants, like burned leaf margins or burned roots.
Single emitter drip irrigation system |
Simple drip watering system |
There are moisture retaining gels available on the market, either already mixed into the "moisture-control" type potting mixes or sold separately to be mixed in by the gardener. It is a polymer based product that looks like tiny pebbles or cystals in the potting mix when dry. They are mixed into the potting soil when it is dry, according to label directions. When wet, the crystals expand and take on the consistency of jello. In their expanded state, they act as water reservoirs, slowly releasing water when the plant or the soil itself becomes dry. These polymers don't eliminate the need for watering, but they do provide a little bit of a cushion for gardeners who might have things to do other than standing and watching for just the right time that their container gardens needs watering.
There is some evidence pointing to a downside of the moisture gels. It appears they might tie up the fertilizer in the gel substance, making it less available to your plants. As long as you are aware of this and increase the frequency of your fertilizing accordingly, the benefits probably outweigh the risks.
We'll talk more about fertilizing tomorrow.
When you say "cut the bottom out of a plastic water or soda bottle", cut it completely or just put holes into the bottom of the bottle? If it is cut completely out won't the water just run right through the plant, but having holes punched in it might take longer to drip through?
ReplyDeleteYou can do it either way. The pressure of the soil on the bottom of the bottle when it is actually set into the container mix will keep the water from running out too quickly. If you want a slower watering, you can punch large holes but leave part of the container bottom intact. You might want to experiment to see which method delivers the correct amount of water for your particular planters.
ReplyDeleteBy placing the cover back on the bottle after filling it the water 'drip' will be slowed considerably.
ReplyDeleteYou can take a plastic bottle, any bottle fill it with H20 put lid on & place it in container upside down & H20 will come out slowly. I keep a larger fruit or other larger plastic bottle in my large container & smaller bottles for small container.. I have done this for a long time. Good Luck on your endeavor.
ReplyDelete