Plastic Pots and Danger

Well, it's been awhile since I've been able to post.  First, the hard drive on my computer decided to crash and it took some time to get that up and working again.  That happened last week, which brings me to the next event that kept me too busy to write and led to the title of this post.

Last Monday, my husband and I arrived home from work at around the same time.  It was a beautiful spring evening, and we smelled wood smoke as we stood outside and visited for a few minutes.  I commented that the neighbors must be burning their brush piles and that maybe we should do the same, since it was the first period of calm winds that we'd experienced in what seemed like months.  He went off to take care of chores in the barn and I went into the house to change clothes before starting on my chores.

When I got in the house, I thought "Hmm.  We must have left the windows open - it's really smoky in here."  About that time, my husband threw open the front door and yelled "Get Out!  The south wall of the house is on fire."  He raced to get water hoses out of the garden shed while I grabbed the phone and called 911.  Fortunately, my husband used to volunteer on the rural fire department, so he knew just how to rip off the siding and get the water in between the walls where it could do the most good.  We had most of the fire out by the time the fire department arrived and had limited the damage to the exterior of the south wall, and inside, just some buckled and scorched sheetrock in one of the bedrooms.   Oh, and an awful smoke, charred wood, and burnt plastic smell throughout the house.  That left the fire department with just the job of trying to figure out what had started the fire.

It could have been so much worse!

The final determination was that the fire had started in a plastic flowerpot that sat beside the house.  After investigating, they are pretty sure that someone wandered into the yard while we were gone and used the flowerpot for an ashtray, igniting the organic matter and the dead foliage that I leave in the pots over the winter to discourage cats from using them as a litter box.  We live pretty close to one of the busiest highways in this state, both for vehicle traffic and hitchhikers, and have had strangers wander into the yard for a little rest before (one even helped himself to a jar of spaghetti sauce that I'd just finished canning), so that is a plausible explanation.

The scorched foundation plate and 2 x 6's

The other explanation is not very likely, but there have been documented cases of spontaneous combustion of the organic material in the plastic pots.  That's where the danger comes in.  According the assistant fire chief, the "perfect combination" of chemicals from the plastic, organic matter in the potting soil, moisture, and heat can cause a reaction that causes the organic matter to heat up, ignite, and smolder.  The organic matter will not burst into flame, but will smolder for hours.  In our case, the process of smoldering, whether from spontaneous combustion or a lit cigarette, caused the wood foundation plate, the 2 x 6 wall studs, the OSB plywood sheeting, insulation, and the Tyvek wrap to begin smoldering behind the steel siding.

Most potting soil mixes contain peat moss or wood products, both of which will burn when exposed to flames or heat. Some potting mixes also contain fertilizer, which acts as an oxidizer that can cause a fire to spread more quickly.  Spontaneous combustion occurs when chemical changes in the material creates heat. Organic material with moisture content between 26 to 46 percent moisture and a temperature that exceeds 200 degrees F may ignite on its own, according to the University of Minnesota Extension Service. 

Although temperatures this high generally only occur in very large piles with limited air flow, such as hay or silage piles, cases of spontaneous combustion in flower pots have been documented.  Thankfully, this is very rare.  It is a little more likely to occur in humid climates.

There are some things you can do to prevent this from happening, other than simply giving up container growing of plants.  While it is not impossible for potting mixes to spontaneously combust in clay, ceramic, or concrete containers, it is more likely in plastic.  If spontaneous combustion does occur in a non-flammable pot, it likely will smolder slowly without causing much damage.  In plastic or resin pots, the heat causes the container to melt, which spills the smoldering contents out into areas that are much more likely to catch fire.  So, I will be replacing all my outdoor plastic pots with some type of hard, non-flammable material.

Here is what is left of two of my plastic containers.  A third one just completely disappeared.

Another way to prevent fires is to keep the containers well-watered (remember, spontaneous combustion occurs when moisture content is 26 to 46 percent) and keep all dead foliage cleaned out of them.  I guess this Fall, I will clean all the dead foliage out and maybe even empty the potting mix into the garden before I put things to bed for the winter.  After all, it will be cheaper to replace potting soil every year than to replace the house and all its contents.

I'll move those containers a little further away from the house, rather than tucking them right up against the wall.  I'm also reconsidering the wisdom of covering my cedar deck with containers, although I switched to all ceramic containers there purely for aesthetic purposes a couple years ago.  Maybe a drip watering system so those containers don't get the opportunity to dry out quite so much on those hot, windy days?

Other than that, I am considering building a barricade or an alligator filled moat around our yard to keep out careless visitors.

Some New Perennials for 2014

I'm always anxious to see what new perennial beauties might be waiting for a spot at Wiese Acres.  Each year I hope to find at least a couple new plants to try.  In the past, I've tried to extend my options by "pushing the envelope" a little with plants that are a bit more tender than our zone 4 usually supports.  I've been pretty successful with some zone 5a plants (cold hardy to -20 to -15 degrees F) for a few years, but this year will be the true test. 

After an unrelenting winter of extreme cold (even for North Dakota) and minimal snow cover (an official total of only 25 inches), plants have been tested well.  Each Fall, I leave the old foliage on the gardens so the snow is caught and creates an insulating blanket over the garden.  That served me well this year by keeping all 25 inches of that snow neatly covering the plants.  But, even with that, it was just doggone cold for those poor plants! 

Since it is too early yet to tell which plants might have met their demise with the long periods of below zero temperatures, I'm planning to take the safe route and look for new perennials that are cold hardy to at least zone 4a (-30 to -25 degrees), and maybe even zone 3b (-35 to -30 degrees) if they are more expensive plants.  So, I started my search for perennials hardy to zone 3.

I further refined my search for a zone 3 plant that has a long bloom period and works in hot, dry, sunny locations.  I found one called "Cat's Meow", a Nepeta faassenii, or catmint.  Cat's Meow grows in a nice, compact mound, about 18 to 20 inches tall and about two feet around.  Unlike many other forms of catmint, Cat's Meow stays in that nice, compact shape without trimming.  The blue-green foliage is covered with bluish-purple flowers that are very attractive to bees and hummingbirds.  Another plus for this catmint - deer and rabbits are likely to leave it alone - unless they are very hungry and nothing better is in sight.

Cat's Meow Nepeta (Proven Winners photo)

Another find is Helenium autumnale "Mariachi Siesta", also hardy to zone 3 and good for a hot, sunny location, as long as it gets adequate moisture.  Helenium is commonly known as sneezeweed, but don't let that less than elegant name scare you away from this wonderful garden dweller.  It grows to about 18 inches tall and 24 inches wide.  Introduced in 2012, but only now becoming readily available in garden centers, Mariachi Siesta shows off red petals that have just a hint of blue so it will coordinate nicely with the Cat's Meow Nepeta.  Those petals surround a maroon and gold cone for a striking effect in each flower.  This beauty also flowers from late June to September.  That's hard to beat in a perennial.


 
Mariachi Siesta (Plants Nouveau photo)

 I'm not done searching yet, so I'm sure I'll find more beauties to share.

Growing Carrots



Internet photo

Choosing the best variety of carrots for your growing conditions is a good start towards a successful carrot crop.  With all root crops, like carrots, beets, radishes, and turnips, proper soil preparation is another key factor for success.  Root crops require deep, loose, well-drained but moisture retentive soil, with a pH that tends more toward the alkaline side.  Adding well-rotted compost or manure will improve the soil condition.  Fresh manure should not be used as it causes forking of the carrot root and a poor quality crop results.  Once the compost or rotted manure is spread, the garden bed should be tilled deeply so that the soil is loose and clod free.

Internet photo

Seeds should be planted in loose soil, about 1/2 inch deep and 1/2 inch apart.   Rows should be spaced about 18 inches apart to allow for plenty of growing space.  Carrot seeds are very small and hard to plant at proper spacing.  I've found that the plunger type seeders are somewhat helpful in not sowing small seeds too closely.  You fill the tube of the seeder and then press the plunger each time you want to dispurse a seed (or two or three or ten) into the row.   

Internet photo

The type of seeder where you pour the seed into a chamber and then dial the appropriate size opening in the chamber through which to shake the seed can also provide a small measure of extra control.





Carrot seeds that are pelleted in a soluble mixture of powders and adhesive which cling to the seed, increasing the size of each seed and making them much easier to plant individually, are also available at a slightly higher cost than regular seed.  The pellet material dissolves once the seed is planted, allowing the seed to germinate.  

Another easy way to plant carrots at the proper spacing is with seed tape.  This is a soluble tape impregnated with the seeds at just the right spacing.  You lay the desired length of tape in your row, cover with 1/2 inch of soil and wait for the carrots to grow.

Carrots will germinate in soil temperatures as low as 40 degrees F, so they can be planted early in the spring, generally about two to three weeks before the average last frost date.  In soil temperatures around 75 degrees, carrot seeds will germinate in about 7 days; soil temps at 50 degrees or so will slow the germination down to as long as 3 weeks.  Germination can be spotty, with some seeds germinating quickly and others taking a couple weeks, so don't give up on the row too soon.

Once the carrots are planted, they need at least 1 inch of water each week during the growing season. Watering should be done deeply to promote the best root development.  Light watering can lead to shallow, low quality roots.

Carrots grow slowly for the first few weeks after planting and the plants are pretty wimpy.  They don't  compete well with weeds, so it's important to keep the bed as weed-free as possible. Shallow cultivation before the weeds become a problem is best.  The young roots are very close to the surface of the soil, so cultivatation should just cut the weeds off right below the surface, leaving the carrot roots undisturbed.

Once the carrots are a couple inches tall, thin the seedlings to one every 2 to 3 inches.  The more space you give each seedling, the larger carrot you are likely to grow.  Rather than pulling the extra seedlings, cut them off just below the surface of the ground, where it is possible to do so.  The root will decompose into the soil and cutting prevents disruption of the remaining carrots, so you don't lose more seedlings than you wish or end up with roots deformed from being disrupted in early growth.

Straw or grass mulch between the rows will help conserve moisture and keep the weed population down.  Mulch can also be used to cover the exposed shoulders of the carrots from sunburning, which will turn that part of the carrot green and bitter.

Then just let them grow.  Carrots can be harvested throughout the summer, once they are finger sized or larger.  They gain their best sweetness later in the fall, after cool days and nights, or even a light frost.   Then they can be stored in a cool dark place and used for several months over the winter.

Different Types of Carrots

I'm coming to the end of last season's crop of carrots, so it must be time to start thinking about planting this year's crop.  Carrots have a reputation for being persnickety about where and how they will grow.  I've found that, with just a little extra attention to detail, I can plan for a bountiful, healthy crop of crisp, tasty roots to snack on over the winter months when good fresh vegetables are hard to come by in North Dakota.  The key is starting with the right type of carrot for the soil conditions in which they will need to grow.

Carrot are generally classified into six types:  Imperator; Danvers; Nantes; Chantenay; Amsterdam; and Paris Market. 

Imperator carrots are about 10 inches long, slender, and tapered.  They do their best in sandy loam and can become quite large in the right growing conditions.  They generally aren't very happy in heavier soil.  These are the type most often found for sale in grocery stores.   They have good flavor and a slightly fibrous texture.  Commercial growers like them because they store well, extending their carrot crop for longer periods of time.  Most carrots are orange, but one variety of Imperator carrots, "Purple Haze" has a beautiful deep purple outside, with a brilliant orange inner flesh.  Unfortunately, once cooked, the entire carrot is orange just like every other carrot.  On a fresh vegie plate, I like to cut them horizontally in circles, so it shows their unusual coloring to the best advantage.  "Imperator 58", "Yellowstone" and "Sugarsnax" are three other common varieties of Imperator carrots.

Danvers are slender, and shorter than Imperators, usually growing to about seven inches long.  They are wider at the top of the root, rather than straight up and down.  Danvers are orange and have a lighter, almost yellow core through the center of the root.  These carrots can and freeze well so are often grown for processing.  These are also the preferred carrots for dedicated juicers.  I like to just eat them fresh, as they are very tasty.  While they prefer a deep, sandy loam like most other root vegetables, Danvers will adapt and do very well in heavier soils, as long as the soil isn't rocky or full of clods.  "Danvers", "Danvers Half Long", "Danvers 126" and "Healthmaster" are all varieties of Danvers carrots.

Nantes are blockier, more like a cylinder than a taper, and grow to about five to seven inches long.   Nantes may be one of the easier carrots to grow, but they do need loose, sandy soil, or soil that is well-amended with lots of organic matter.  They do not, however, like fresh manure and will provide some entertaining shapes and wimpy carrots if planted in manure or compost that is not well-rotted.   Nantes are probably the sweetest of the carrot types, and have a nice crisp texture.  Unfortunately, they don't store well.  Common varieties of Nantes type carrots are "Early Nantes", "Scarlet Nantes", "Nelson Hybrid", "Sweetness Hybrid", and "Mokum". 

Chantenay are shorter, growing to about five inches long, and are cone shaped, wider at the top than the bottom of the root.  Chantenays have been known to develop a girth of three to four inches at their widest point.  Chantenays have a rich, very sweet flavor like Nantes, but have an advantage in that they store quite well.  Chantenays will generally do quite well in heavier clay soil, as long as there is high organic matter content.   "Red Core", "Kurota", and "Carson Hybrid" are all varieties of Chantenay type carrots.  Chantenays are suited for late season cropping and will tolerate a fairly hard frost.  In fact, carrots will usually develop their highest sugar content after a good chilling.

Amsterdam are "baby" carrots, growing short and slender, to about three inches long.   Generally, the shorter the carrot type, the more easily they will adapt to heavier soil, so Amsterdams are good choices for less than ideal soil conditions.  They mature earlier, so they are a good crop for summer harvesting.  "Amsterdam Forcing" and "Amsterdam 2 Maxi" are two varieties of Amsterdam type.

Paris Market or "Parisian" types are French heirloom varieties that grow round, rather than long, reaching about 1 1/2 inches in diameter.  Since they don't develop deep roots, they are the most tolerant of heavy, rocky, poor quality soils.  "Oxheart" and "Atlas" are two other varieties that don't develop deep roots and adapt well to poor soils.

Starting with the right type of carrots is the first step in growing a successful crop of sweet, crisp, crunchy, and vitamin packed carrots.  In the next blog installment, I'll talk about how to plant, tend, and harvest the carrot crop.

Daylily Combinations

Daylilies are always winners in my gardens.  They aren't 100% trouble free, but they come close enough to make me happy.  So, when October's freak snowstorm destroyed enough of the trees in the back yard to turn it from part shade to full sun, I immediately thought of daylilies as replacements for my part shade flowers who won't like it there anymore.

I generally look for daylilies with dormant foliage (DOR) as those are the ones that do best in our climate of extremes.  With other flowering perennials that will be perfectly happy staying in the "new" environment of full sun providing early and late season color, I need something that will bloom midseason, or mid to late July in most years.  I also know that I want a real "pop" of color to brighten up that area, something that will work with purples, reds, and yellows.  I want at least three different but complementary colors, and a variety of shapes and sizes of flowers that will bloom at the same time, so I have a "bouquet" in my garden. 

I grabbed the catalogue for one of my favorite daylily suppliers, Oakes Daylilies, and started shopping.  Here is the combination I decided to order.

The "main attraction" will be Prince of Purple.  This spider type daylily is a rich purple color with a gold eyezone and cream colored midribs to further define each petal.  The 5 1/2 inch blooms stand on 34 inch tall scapes. 

"Prince of Purple" Photo from Oakes Daylilies

A supporting character will be Ferengi Gold, a short little beauty that will bring your attention to the creamy mid-rib of Prince of Purple.  At only 19 inches tall, this little gal will act as the "filler" in my bouquet.  It is a gorgeous creamy yellow with just a hint of pink tones and a beautifully ruffled edge to add a little bit of texture.  In spite of its short stature, it's 5 1/2 inch blooms will not be ignored. 

Ferengi Gold Daylily - Photo courtesy of Oakes Daylilies

Ilonka will be the final star in my little tableau.  Ilonka is 28 inches tall, with 7 inch lavender / orchid blooms, which will nicely complement the deep purple of Prince of Purple.  It has a yellow throat with a creamy watermark which will blend in nicely with the colorings and markings of both Prince of Purple and Ferengi Gold.

 
Ilonka Daylily - Photo courtesy of Oakes Daylilies

Together, they should add a nice touch to that corner of my garden.

Amaryllis for Valentine's Day - Results!

Happy Valentine's Day.  Mother Nature apparently thinks we are still back at New Year's Day, with below zero temperatures that just won't release their grip this year.  Normally, by Valentine's day, we can almost feel spring thaw in the air, but not this year.  Thank goodness for indoor gardening. 

Today I want to show you what happened with those amaryllis bulbs I planted about six weeks ago.  They are definitely brightening up the gloomy winter days.

Once the amaryllis blossom is opened, I remove the pollen covered anthers with a sharp scissors.  This keeps the pollen from staining things it might drop onto, but also extends the life of the blossom.

During the bloom time, the amaryllis should be kept in moist, but not soggy soil and set in an area of bright light, but not direct sunlight.  This will also help prolong the life of the blossoms.

Amaryllis need to be potted in small pots, with about 1/3 of the bulb above the top of the soil.  When the blossoms are fully open, they become top heavy and the flower stalk may bend and tip the pot over on its side.  I use small twigs cut from trees, stuck down to the bottom of the planters, being careful not to touch the bulb.  Any type of dowel can be used, but I like the natural look of the twigs.  The top of the flower stem, just below the blossoms, should be secured to the twig with some type of soft yarn or floral tape.

Once the blossoms are spent, the flower stalk should be trimmed back as close to the bulb as possible, again without damaging the bulb.  The amaryllis should have developed strappy leaves by this time.  Water and fertilize the bulbs weekly with a bloom-boosting fertilizer.  Keep the plant in a brightly lit window, with normal house type temperatures.  During this time, the bulb is storing nutrients and developing next year's flowers.  For Valentine's treats next year, keep them growing until late fall, then stop watering and allow the foliage to dry off.  Store the dried bulbs in a cool, dry place for about six weeks, until about Christmas time, then repot them if necessary, and bring them to a warm, well-lighted place and begin waterning normally.  In another six weeks, they will produce another mass of blooms, just in time for Valentine's day.

Amaryllis blossoms make a wonderful centerpiece for a cut flower bouquet, as well.  Simply cut the flower stalk close to the bulb and put it immediately into fresh water.  The stalks hold a lot of syrupy water, so be prepared with a towel to place at the bottom of the stalk when you cut it, if you need to carry it anywhere to get it into the vase.  They work well with any other type of flower.  I like to buy one of those packages of inexpensive cut flowers in bright colors that show  up in grocery stores and other places, especially this time of the year.  I just add my cut amaryllis to them, and I have an instant bouquet.  Beautiful!

It's a whole lot better to get up and watch the sunrise with this view in front of me than just the wide expanse of dirty white that is the front yard right now.

Heirloom, Hybrid, GMO, and Organic Seeds

I’m sort of disappointed these past couple years that my seemingly endless supply of seed catalogues actually begins to arrive in my mailbox before Christmas.  It takes away that anticipation for something exciting to happen to chase away the January and February blahs.  This year, I’ve helped that let-down feeling by simply placing the seed catalogues in a pile without even looking to see what companies have seen fit to keep me on their mailing list this year.

So, now that it is time to actually look at seed catalogues, I can start looking through my piles, discarding any that I know I will never order from, either because of previous bad experiences, bad reviews, or them simply not carrying anything that is of interest to me.  Then, it’s time to start looking through the remaining dream books.

 I always get a little confused when I’m thinking about seeds.  I hear all kinds of “stuff” about GMO and GE seeds, but I’m not sure what that really means.  I know some gardeners who swear they will only ever plant heirloom seeds (this seems to be an especially hot button with tomato lovers for some reason) and others who swear they will only plant hybrid seeds.  And, then there are the organic seed enthusiasts who swear that organic is the only healthy and safe way to grow.  And, most seed-catalogues offer some of everything.  Decisions, decisions.

Let’s start with heirloom seeds.  In order to be considered an heirloom, the plants from this type of seed have to have been grown for many years, since 1940 or before.  These are seeds that are usually passed down from generation to generation, gardener to gardener.  They are always “open-pollinated” which means they are pollinated by insects or wind, without human intervention.   Gardeners who prefer heirloom varieties generally tell you the flavor is exceptional compared to others, the skin is more tender, the fruit is juicier, and a variety of other attractive features.  They will rarely tell you these varieties out-produce other types of seeds or that they are healthier plants.  Most heirlooms do not have disease resistance bred into them, so proper care must be taken to keep them healthy.  Also, because of the open pollination of these seeds, they may become crossed with other varieties and not give a reliable product from year to year.  If heirloom plants are separated from other similar plants, though, seed can be saved from year to year and produce reliably the same plant from which it originated.

 Hybrid plants come to be when breeders, in a controlled environment,  cross-pollinate different plants of compatible varieties with desirable features, trying to bring the best features of each plant into one new plant.  Hybridization can occur naturally in the environment when two compatible species are near enough for wind or insects to carry pollen from one to another, and have seed development from the meeting of the two types of pollen. 

Typically, hybridizers are trying to increase factors such as yield, disease resistance, fruit or vegetable size, or improved taste or texture.    Hybrid plants usually produce large quantities of uniform produce that are generally more resistant to disease than the parent plants.  Many taste savvy gardeners complain that hybrids just don’t have the same richness of flavor as heirlooms. 

Saving seeds from hybrids is not reliable.  The next generation will likely revert to one or more of the stronger characteristics of one of the parent plants.  So, if you planted Early Girl tomatoes last year and absolutely loved them, even if you saved the seeds from the biggest and nicest tomatoes, if you really want that same type of Early Girl tomatoes this year, you’ll have to buy new seed.

 Newer methods of hybridization have sped up the process of obtaining a reliable hybrid from ten to twelve generations of the plant in the past, to reliable hybridization in one generation.  These seeds are marketed as F1 hybrids and are usually owned by the seed company which introduced them.  That company produces the seed each year by planting male and female plants in controlled conditions, such as under row covers, and hand-pollinating the females from which they harvest the seeds.

Even though genetically modified organisms (GMO), genetically engineered (GE), and hybrid seeds are all created through man-made manipulation of the seed, they are different.  Hybridizing involves taking existing desirable characteristics of two plants and bringing them together to create a better plan, without changing the individual DNA characteristics.    GMO or GE seeds are made by genetically engineering seeds through cloning or splicing genes that carry a desirable trait from one plant and introducing it into another plant, actually changing the DNA of the plant.   This process is also known as genetic modification, biotechnology, biotech seeds, or genetic engineering.  Genetic engineering can be utilized between species of plants or even different kingdoms, such as the introduction of genetic material from Bacillus thuringensis (Bt )into corn DNA to make the resulting corn resistant to corn borers.  Genetic engineering introduces other DNA to plants that would not normally make it there under normal conditions.

 Organic seeds come from growers who use integrated pest management methods rather than chemicals to control weeds, diseases, and pests.   Organic refers to the way seeds are grown, while heirloom, hybrid, and GMO refer to the plant’s heritage.   To be labeled “Certified Organic”, the grower must have complied with a fairly rigorous set of standards.  Heirloom seeds and hybrids can all be grown organically.  Theoretically, GMO seeds could also be grown under organic conditions, however, the USDA’s National Organic Program prohibits the use of genetically engineered seeds, along with synthetic fertilizers and pesticides, biosolids (sewage sludge) and fresh manure in the production of organic crops or seeds.  The purchase of organic seeds does not guarantee an organic product. The resulting product is only organic if the seed is planted and grown to production with continued organic methods.

I'm not sure if I will plant heirlooms or hybrids, organic or not, but this weekend I will be poring over my seed catalogues and making plans for warmer weather.  Maybe it will even make me forget about the piles of snow and the persistent minus sign in front of the temperature reading these past couple weeks.

 

Sweet Corn- Su? Se? Sh-2? What Does It All Mean?

Dad

My Dad loved to grow just about everything, but I do believe sweet corn was his favorite.  When I first started to help my Dad in the sweet corn field, what kind of  sweet corn to plant wasn't much of an issue.  I don't recall the variety name, but it was always Trojan brand.  That was the brand that produced the biggest, juiciest, sweetest ears.  Dad's sweet corn patch was always planted out in the fields, safely away from the field corn, but with plenty of space.  I also don't recall anymore how many acres he planted, but it seemed like the sweet corn field went on and on forever. 

When the corn was ready, word went out around the community, and people would come from all the neighboring towns to buy sweet corn by the bushel.  I was the youngest in the family, and by default, the job of selling that sweet corn fell to me.  People would drive in the yard, I'd leave a note on the door for future customers to come on out to the field, along with directions on how to get there, and I'd jump in with the customer and we'd go pick.  I remember the price going from $1.75 a bushel early on in my sales career to $3.75 the last year I was in charge of sales.  That kept me busy for a couple weeks just before school started each summer. 

That corn was a standard (su) cultivar.  It had the traditional flavor of sweet corn and that nice, crisp yet tender texture.  The downside of that corn was that when it was "ready", each ear lasted only a couple days in the field and then it started to get a little too firm and too starchy.  Once picked, it really was only at its best if cooked almost immediately.  In su cultivars, the sugars in the kernels begin to turn to starch right away and it quickly loses its sweetness.  Close to suppertime each day during corn season, I would hop in the 1936 Hudson Terraplane that was our farm knockaround vehicle, prop myself up on pillows so I could see over the top of the steering wheel,  and drive to the field to pick enough for a big kettle full of corn.  We'd clean that corn and throw it in a kettle of boiling water as soon as we got it home.  There was nothing like that corn, dripping with melted real butter and a little dab of salt and pepper.  Yum, yum, yum!

Times have changed though, and people no longer are able to guarantee that those ears of corn will be cleaned and cooked within minutes of picking.  So, new cultivars that hold their quality longer have been developed over the years.  These are the sugar-enhanced (se) and the shrunken-2 (sh-2) varieties.

The sugar-enhanced (se) cultivars have a higher sugar content than the su cultivars but not as high as the sh-2 cultivars.  The se varieties have a nice, tender kernel and retain their sweetness for longer after picking than standard varieties, making them more suited for commercial sales.  These varieties generally are planted about a week later than su varieties and can be stored for a couple days after picking.

The sh-2 varieties are called that because of the shrunken appearance of the seed when it is dried.  These are also known as the "super sweet" varieties.  The sh-2 varieties are about twice as sweet as su varieties.  They need to be planted later than even the se varieties, as they need warm soil temperatures to germinate.  The ears stay fresh in the garden longer than other varieties, as well as having a longer shelf life after picking, sometimes staying sweet for as long as a week after picking if kept in the right conditions.  The downside of the sh-2 varieties is that the kernels tend to be a little tough and they need to be isolated from all other corn varieties to keep from cross-pollinating.

Synergistic varieties are a combination of se and sh-2, with about 75% se kernels and 25% sh-2, combining the sweetness and keeping qualities of the sh-2 varieties with the tenderness of the se kernels.  Synergistic varieties also need to be separated from se and standard varieties.

All sweet corn varieties need to be isolated from field corn, popcorn and ornamental corn, but sh-2 varieties need to be separated from se and standard varieties by about 250 feet and out of the path of prevailing winds.  In the average home garden, this isn't always practical so the choice between the  sh-2 or the se and standard varieties needs to be made.  Personally, I prefer the se varieties because of the good sugar content while still having tender kernels.  The se varieties seem better for canning and freezing, as well.

I plant a variety of se and su varieties with varying maturity rates.  That way, we can enjoy that delicious fresh sweet corn for an extended period of time.  I have some old standby favorites that I plant every year.   "Bodacious" is my favorite se variety.  It produces ears with large, sweet, yellow  kernels in about 80 days.   Delectable is another favored se variety.  It is a bicolor, with white and yellow kernels, very sweet and tender.  It produces an average of two to three good sized ears per stalk and matures in about 84 days.  For an earlier se variety, I sometimes plant Sugar Buns, which matures in about 75 days, with 7 1/2 inch ears covered with sweet, creamy yellow kernels.

Early Xtra Super Sweet and Northern Xtra Sweet are sh-2 varieties that do well for me and produce very early, in about 65 to 70 days.  I like to plant just a small patch of this to get us started on the sweet corn season.

We plant the bulk of our corn to mature about the third week in August.  It's become a tradition that Wiese Acres throws a big barbecue supper and corn feed one Saturday evening during sweet corn time.  We invite about 150 people to share summer's bounty with us and enjoy a beautiful summer evening with good company, leisurely strolls through the gardens, and, of course, all the sweet corn we can eat, dripping with real butter and lightly sprinkled with salt and pepper.

Hmm.  My stomach is growling just thinking about it! 

Chasing the Winter Blah Away

It feels like it's been a long winter, and unfortunately, here in North Dakota, we have a long ways yet to go.  It's certainly been a volatile one so far... 40 degrees above zero one day; then 20 degrees below zero the next day.  We've had several episodes of freezing rain followed by snow and wind.  Oh, yes, we've had wind.  A few days ago, we had several hours of sustained winds at 50 miles per hour and gusts clocked at upwards of 75 miles per hour.  It's downright irritating.

There's something about being able to surround yourself with a sea of vibrant, growing green, though, that helps even the coldest, windiest day seem not quite so bad.  I love my four season room that allows me to do that.   This morning, I looked at the thermometer that hangs in my kitchen before going out to do my "chores" with the animals.  It showed negative 13 degrees.  Brrrr.  I headed to my four season room, where the temperature was a balmy 72 degrees, the humidity was a comfortable 55%, and the only wind came from the ceiling fan.  Now, that's my kind of climate.

Some of the plants are starting to show the strain of the short days of winter - leaves are looking a little pale, growth has slowed or stopped, and those sun-loving blooming plants are noticeably short of colorful blossoms.  Sometimes, when we are having a particularly gloomy stretch of days, I add some high intensity grow lights to help them along.  I set the lights on a timer for 12 to 15 hours a day and let the plants think that spring is closer than it really is.

The more shade tolerant plants seem to be doing just fine, and I'm pretty confident that those that are looking a little peaked now will perk up as the days begin to get noticeably longer and we leave the winter season behind and head into spring.  Until then, they are a whole lot greener than anything outside.

Over-Wintering Tender Roses Indoors

Each spring, I buy some cheap hybrid tea roses - you know the ones that come wrapped in sawdust and cardboard paper, then stuffed in a plastic tube?  I plant those in containers as my "thriller" and enjoy long-stemmed tea roses for the summer.  In the fall, I usually just let them die a natural death in the long, cold winter. 

Last spring I spent a little more on my container roses.  For my daughter's wedding, I purchased three more expensive roses:  Bride's Dream, Maid of Honor, and Promise.  They did beautifully and I decided they were worth trying to save.  Initially I planned to trim them back, remove them from the containers and bury the entire rose under several inches of soil, topped by a thick layer of mulch.  This is a process commonly known as the "Minnesota Tip" method and many rose gardeners in harsher climates swear by it. 

That plan didn't quite work out for me.  We had a nice, long Autumn and those roses stayed green and blooming throughout September.  Then, in early October, all my gardening plans got derailed by an early wet snow that caused extensive damage to many of our trees and resulted in many, many hours of clean-up work.  Before I knew it, the soil was frozen and there was no chance left to perform the "Minnesota Tip".

Most rose experts will tell you not to attempt over-wintering roses indoors.  They are prone to pests and disease and just don't do well.  Since I knew they were doomed for sure if I left them outdoors, though, I decided I had nothing to lose.  So, I brought them, pot and all, into the garage, where the temperature remains at about 50 degrees over the winter.  I placed them in a protected area where the frigid air that comes in when the garage door opens is less likely to reach them.

I trimmed the bushes back to about 10 inches, gave them a good bath with a sharp spray from the garden hose to knock off any hitch-hiking pests, and then set them up under grow lights on a timer for 15 hours per day.  I decided to be pro-active about pests and diseases, so I scratched a little bit of systemic houseplant pesticide into the top of the soil.  I watered them well and kept them spread far enough apart so there could be good air movement around each plant. 

Initially, I watered them about twice a month, keeping them a little on the dry side.  In early December, they started to grow.  Shortly before Christmas, I noticed that they were developing buds.  Since they clearly wanted to grow, I began watering more frequently.  To help the buds develop, I started giving them a basic rose fertilizer every other watering. 


Last week, I picked a bouquet of beautiful roses.  Let me tell you, that was a great feeling as the actual temperature outside was hovering around negative 20 degrees with wind chills creating a "feels like" temperature of negative 48. 





I don't know if this method will always be so successful but as of now, I have healthy, happy, blooming roses and I have great plans for them come spring.

Transplanting Orchids

Remember those orchids I just couldn't resist when I walked through the garden center last year about this time?  Well, they've been thriving and it appears it's time to give them a larger place to grow.

Orchids benefit from regular transplanting.  In their native environment, orchids are epiphytes, or air plants.  Their roots hang from trees in the jungle, exposed to air and high humidity.  When potted, they need to be in a mix that allows lots of air to get to the roots and retains moisture without being "soggy".  As potting mix decomposes, it packs in more tightly around the roots and limits the amount of oxygen that is available to the roots.  As it decomposes, it also retains more water and may cause root rot.

If an orchid's health begins to decline, it is likely in need of repotting.  Repotting does stress the orchid, so it's best to not allow the decline to become too marked before making the decision to repot.  Another indication that it's time to repot an orchid is when you see the roots begin to climb out and spill over the sides of the pot. 

The best time to replant an orchid is after it has completed its bloom cycle and is starting to put out new root growth.  It's not advisable to transplant plants when they are in bloom, but if the potting medium is worn out and retaining too much moisture, it might be better to take the risk of losing a few blooms than to risk losing the entire plant.

Using the correct potting medium for the type of orchid is important.  The potting medium is what encourages root health, and no matter how beautiful the leaves of the orchid may look, if it does not have a good, healthy root mass, the orchid will not produce the beautiful flowers that we covet.  Orchids can not be planted in regular potting soil.  The most common potting mediums are a mix of bark or coco husk chips, charcoal, and vermiculite or aliflor (a lightweight clay type material).  Orchids can also be planted in peat moss, but watering must be done very carefully with this type of medium as peat moss holds more moisture for longer periods of time.  Once the correct potting medium is chosen, it should be soaked overnight before using it for transplanting.  This will give the orchid roots a nice, moist environment right from the start.

 Orchids do not like to be in too large a pot.  If the pot is too large, there aren't enough roots to absorb the moisture from the potting mix, causing it to stay too wet for too long.  Unlike many other plants, an orchid won't increase root growth to take up the extra space and  moisture.  Too much pot space leaves the roots setting in a soggy mess and at risk of rotting.  An orchid that is in the correct size pot should dry out and need watering about once a week.  If you are watering with the recommended amount of water and the potting medium is staying wet for much longer than that, it is probably in too large a pot.

The root ball should be nice and wet when removed from its pot for transplanting.  This will help loosen the roots from the sides of the container and loosen the potting medium from around the roots.  This can be accomplished by soaking the entire pot in room temperature water for a few hours before attempting to remove them from their containers.

Once the roots and potting medium are good and wet, lift the entire root mass gently upward.  If roots are still clinging to the sides of the container, use a very sharp, clean knife to run around the inside of the pot to loosen them. 

Once you've removed the orchid from its current pot, you'll be able to tell if it needs a larger pot or not.  If all the roots are in good condition and fill the pot, then it is probably ok to go up one pot size.   If the roots are in poor condition, they should be trimmed and put back into the same pot size.  My orchids were in 4 inch pots, with nice, healthy roots, so I transplanted them into 5 inch pots.



The old potting medium should be gently loosened from around the roots.  The roots should be rinsed with clean, room temperature water  and any unhealthy roots trimmed away with a sharp scissors or knife.  In the photo with the loosened roots, you can see that the ends of some of the roots had lost their nice green color and turned almost white.  This indicates that those root ends had been receiving too much water.  Those were trimmed back to the nice, healthy, firm green part of the root before transplanting.

I put a thin layer of potting medium on the bottom of the new pot and then spread the roots evenly around the pot.  Some sources suggest using broken pot shards or gravel, but this isn't really necessary if you have a shallow, well-draining pot.  The orchid should be planted at the same depth it was in the old pot and more or less potting medium can be added to the bottom of the container to accomplish this.  Fill potting medium in around the root mass, gently pushing medium between the roots with your fingers.  Fill around the edges of the pot until the orchid no longer "wiggles" in the pot.  The roots need to be secured in the potting medium to encourage new growth.

A stake should be used to support any flower stalks or floppy leaves to avoid movement that places stress on the root mass. 







The newly transplanted orchid should be set in a protected place out of direct sunlight for a week or so after transplanting.  After that, it can be moved back into a location with bright light but not direct afternoon sun and watered normally.   Then watch for the new flattened stems with the little "mittens" on the end - that's the flower stalk that will soon be covered with blossoms.

Amaryllis for Valentine's Day

Most people view amaryllis (Hippeastrum spp.) as a Christmas season plant and they do beautifully in that capacity. I like to spread my winter color out a bit, though, so I concentrate on the readily available beautiful poinsettias for Christmas and coax my amaryllis bulbs to put forth their best efforts around Valentine's Day.

That means I need to start preparing them right around Christmas time. Generally, an amaryllis will put forth new growth within a week or so after planting and bloom within about six to seven weeks. They are easy to grow and bloom beautifully for a period of several weeks, with each individual blossom lasting up to a week.

 Amaryllis bulbs can be saved from year to year. When they finish blooming,  continue to water and fertilize them regularly and as soon as all danger of frost is gone, move them to a sheltered spot outdoors.  Continue to water and fertilize them regularly throughout the growing season. When hard, killing frost is predicted in the fall, bring the potted amaryllis in, place them in a cool, dark spot and stop watering them. Once the foliage has gone dormant, trim it off and store the bulbs for about a six week rest period.  

Around Christmas, bring the bulbs out of storage. If the bulbs are not crowded in their pots, add a top-dressing of compost to the pot, just enough to fill the container to within about one inch from the top and still leave about the top one-third of the bulb exposed.  Place the pot in a warm, sunny location, and begin watering regularly. If the bulbs are crowded, or the soil is very compacted, they should be re-planted.

Remove the bulbs from the old container, shake off the old soil and prune any roots that are not nice and plump, solid and white.  Sometimes, there will be smaller bulbs growing around the sides of the old bulb.  These bulbs can be gently separated from the parent bulb and potted on their own.  They may not bloom the first year or so, but eventually you will have another beautiful amaryllis plant.

The bulbs should be planted in a container large enough to allow the roots to be spread nicely.  The circumference of the pot should allow about 1 to 1 1/2 inches on all sides of the bulb.  Fill the container about 1/3 full of good quality potting soil, then place the bulb on top, spreading the roots on top of the soil.  Cover the roots carefully and fill the container with potting soil until only the top 1/3 of the bulb is exposed.  The small "baby" bulbs can be planted individually or in groups in container, following the same procedure as for the parent bulbs.

After planting, water and place the container in a warm, sunny location and wait for the flower stalk to emerge within a few weeks.  Typically, the flower stalk emerges before the leaves begin to emerge and the flowers will bloom a few weeks later.

Happy New Year

Merry Christmas

Christmas Trees and Their Multiple Uses

I love Christmas.  I love the decorations, the music, the feelings, the crazy hustle bustle of the season.  I don't even really mind most of the fake evergreen smells that come out in candles, air fresheners, little scent sticks to hang in your artificial tree to help you pretend it's real, and a variety of other means.  But there is nothing I love more than the smell of fresh, real Christmas trees. 

When artificial trees first came on the market, they were marketed as a more environmentally friendly way to celebrate the season, rather than cutting down all those real trees.  What we didn't talk about was the fact that those artificial trees don't look good forever.  After a few years, they become tattered and ratty looking and we decide to shop for a new tree.  Those tattered trees end up in the landfill, where they take many, many decades to decompose.  They use up beneficial nutrients from the soil as they are decomposing, however, they don't add anything back to the soil in the process.   That's a lose-lose.

Real trees are a renewable resource.  Across the country, for every real evergreen harvested, at least three new seedlings are planted.  Now, being a gardener, I know that not every one of those seedlings lives and grows to become someone's Christmas tree a few years down the road.  But, those that do survive serve multiple purposes.  As they are growing, they are helping to clean and oxygenate the air around them; they are providing shelter for wildlife and birds; they are beautifying the fields in which they are grown; they end up beautifying our homes after they are cut; and finally, they can help us out with some of our winter chores in the gardens.  That's a win-win.

Once it's time to remove the tree, we bundle it up in a huge plastic bag and carry it out to the garage.  There, I unwrap it and start the work of cutting off all the branches.  The bare trunk gets thrown out into the wood pile.  The branches then become mulch for the roses, perennials, young trees, or whatever else needs a good sturdy layer of mulch that isn't likely to be blown around by the North Dakota "breezes".  The branches catch the snow and make a nice insulating layer over the vulnerable plants, but they don't become packed down like other mulches can.  This allows more oxygen to get to the plants and creates a better overall environment for them.  In very harsh winters, if we have any birds that decide to stay in the north country over the winter months, I will place suet packs or pans of sunflower seeds or safflower seeds in amongst the piles of branches and the birds can safely enjoy their own winter buffet.

Another benefit of using the evergreen branches for mulch is cat control.  My kitties are pretty good about not using the garden areas for their beds or litter boxes in the summer, but in the winter, they just look for whatever snow is easy to dig in.  They are not inclined to dig around in the prickly, stickery evergreen branches, though, so I can keep them out of vulnerable garden areas.

When spring arrives, I give the clump of evergreen branches a good whack or two to knock loose needles down to the ground, where they will become rich compost over the course of the summer.   The branches and any clinging needles get tossed into the compost pile.  The trunk of the tree, minus the branches, gets cut into firepit size pieces so the enjoyment of that Christmas tree can last well into the summer.  The trunk can also be chipped and used for mulch in the gardens.

I am not anti- artificial tree, (I love Christmas enough that I decorate several Christmas trees each year and some of them are artificial trees) but all in all, that real Christmas tree is a great investment.  And you just can't replace that true evergreen scent.

Poinsettias and Animals

Twerp (he's not really a grumpy cat - just looks that way)

It's commonly thought that poinsettias are poisonous and will kills animals, especially cats, if they ingest them.  A member of the euphorbia or spurge family, poinsettias will exude a white, milky sap when the leaf or stem is injured in any way.  That sap is very irritating, causing burning of the mouth with excess drooling, and may cause some vomiting, but it does not commonly kill animals. 

Many animals know intuitively what will harm them and they will stay away from things that are not good for them.  Once in awhile, one will decide to "test".  We had a cat who tried to have our poinsettia for a snack.  Taffy was a cat with above average intelligence - about everything but plants.  She never met a plant she didn't think she needed to taste.  So, when I brought the poinsettia home, she watched it carefully until I left the room.  Then she quietly stalked it for awhile, sneaking ever closer and closer.  When she determined that the time was right, she pounced and got a big bite of a nice, big, red leaf.  Soon, she was drooling, shaking her head, and meowing pitifully.  The symptoms went away in a surprisingly short period of time, but in all of Taffy's 21 years, she never forgot that first taste of poinsettia.  Every year, when those red plants came into the house, she gave them a wide berth and would slink into another room  and sulk until she was sure it wasn't going to attack her.

Llilies are commonly seen in holiday bouquets and can be very toxic to animals.  Even small amounts of a lily can cause kidney failure in cats.  Virtually all plants in the lilium family are toxic to animals.  A common one seen at Christmas time is the amaryllis and with their strappy, floppy leaves, animals sometimes have difficulty resisting them.  Daffodils and all other members of the narcissus family are also highly toxic to animals and should be kept away from them.

Holly berries, mistletoe, and rosemary can also be toxic to dogs and cats. When Christmas  holly is ingested, it can result in severe gastrointestinal upset.  If ingested, most dogs and cats smack their lips, drool, and shake their heads excessively.   American mistletoe is less toxic than the European varieties, but is still harmful to pets   It causes mild gastrointestinal irritation if ingested in small amounts.  In large amounts, low blood pressure, ataxia (walking drunk), seizures and death have been reported.

Another hazard to pets this time of year is the Christmas tree.  Christmas trees are mildly toxic. The tree oils can  be irritating to the mouth and stomach, causing excessive drooling or vomiting. The tree needles are not easily digested either; possibly causing GI irritation, vomiting, gastrointestinal obstruction or puncture of the gut itself. The degree of reaction depends on how much is consumed. Many times, pets don't consume mass quantities of tree material before they figure out it isn's setting well with them. 

With a little bit of planning ahead and some extra watchfulness, it is possible to enjoy both the plants of the holidays and pets.  Keeping toxic plants or flower arrangements in a separate room where kitty or puppy is allowed to be unsupervised is the best way.  For puppies, setting it on a table or stand that he can't reach will work also.   A few minutes of precautionary measures can save you a lot of heartache, especially with the more toxic plants like lilies, mistletoe, and holly.

Poinsettia Care

It's that time of year when the gorgeous blooms of the poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima) plant are everywhere.  As a thank you gift for the preparation work I do for our company Christmas party, my employer provides me with a beautiful huge poinsettia to brighten my home.  My challenge is to keep it as beautiful throughout the season as it was when it arrived.

The first challenge is simply getting it home.  Since Christmas happens in December and December happens in the depths of winter in North Dakota, poinsettias don't much appreciate being transported in any manner that involves going outdoors.  Any exposure to temperatures below 60 degrees is likely to cause leaf drop.  Since the bright colors of poinsettias actually come from the leaves and not the flowers, leaf drop is a big deal!  Exposure to temperatures below freezing, even for a very short time, will cause the leaf edges to blacken and curl, and may kill the plant. 

Poinsettias should be securely wrapped, preferably in a layer of paper, then a layer of plastic.  The packaging should completely enclose the poinsettia so no drafts reach any of the plant.  The vehicle in which the plant will be transported should be warm and parked as close to the door as possible to avoid having the plant exposed to cold temperatures for any longer than absolutely necessary.

Once home, the plant needs to be placed in a sunny location that is free from drafts, either hot or cold.  A south or west window is ideal, but a poinsettia may do well in an east window.  North windows generally will not provide sufficient light to keep a poinsettia looking its best.  The plant should be close enough to the window for good sun exposure, but not so close that the leaves touch the window pane or any cold air coming off or through the window reaches the plant.

Ideal room temperature for poinsettias is 65 to 70 degrees during the day and slightly cooler at night, however, not below 60 degrees.  Too cool a location encourages root rot and leaf drop, neither of which are conducive to a long-lived beautiful poinsettia.

Correct watering is also critical to a poinsettia's health.  If allowed to get too dry, a poinsettia will drop its leaves prematurely, leaving you with homely, blah green stalks.  Too much watering leads to root rot disease, which will cause collapse of the entire plant.  It is best to check the soil in the poinsettia pot daily, especially in homes that must be heated for the winter.  Winter air is more arid anyway, and the process of heating it from frigid cold to a temperature comfortable for humans and plants draws even more of the moisture from the air.  When the top half inch or so is dry to the touch, the plant should be watered until water drains freely from the drainage holes in the bottom of the pot. 

And here, it's wise to say a word about those beautiful foil wrappers that cover the not so beautiful green or black plastic pots.  A horticulturalist will tell you those wrappers should be removed and thrown away.  A home decorator will say "no, no, no.  You can't spoil the beauty of the poinsettia with that ugly green (or black) pot!"  Since there is a little bit of the characteristics of both a horticulturalist and a decorator in me, I've learned to compromise.  I remove the foil wrapper briefly, use a knife or scissors to poke a few drainage holes in the foil, replace the foil around the ugly pot, then set the whole thing in a decorative saucer. 

The recommended water amounts vary based on the size of the pot.  The following table can be used as a guide:

Pot Diameter (inches)    Fluid Ounces of 
                                         Water per Watering .     

4                                               6
5                                               9
6                                             12
7                                             16
8                                             20

Keeping the right amount of moisture, giving the poinsettia enough sun, and keeping it free from drafts will provide you with those beautiful red, or pink, or even white leaves well into the spring.                 

Winter Blossoms

The temperature is minus 9 degrees, the snow is falling and the wind is blowing.  Brrr.  I thought it might be a good time to share some winter color with others who are living in the deep freeze right now.  There are a number of houseplants that give us beauty and bright colors for the dreary days of winter.   Here are just a few to brighten your day.  I hope you enjoy looking at them as much as I do.